Land Beer, Loudoun Grown

by Hugh Kenny, Multimedia Specialist, The Piedmont Environmental Council

“Beer is an agricultural product. We think a lot of people forget that.”

Bonny and John Branding, co-founders of Wheatland Spring Farm and Brewery, pride themselves on making beer that reflects the distinct agricultural region of Virginia’s Piedmont — a concept they call “land beer.”

Wheatland Spring is an “estate brewery,” a concept distinct from the many farm breweries in our area. While farm breweries usually rely on commodity ingredients in their beers, Wheatland Spring sets itself apart by growing much of its own grain on-site, cultivating barley and wheat varieties specifically adapted to Virginia’s climate and using other local ingredients when that’s not possible. 

The idea of “land beer” was inspired by the Brandings’ time living in Europe, where they visited breweries that have been growing grain and developing their signature styles for centuries across the countrysides of Germany and France. They were inspired by how connected these beers and their brewers were to local agriculture and growing conditions; they felt they could truly grasp a sense of place through the beer. 

Back in the United States, Bonny and John set out to create a similar experience here in Loudoun County. Crucially, though, they didn’t aspire to replicate the beers they had enjoyed in Europe, but rather to create a local tradition of beer that tastes like the agriculture of our region. “We want to connect people with farmland through food and beverage.”

The results speak for themselves. The beer is delicious. From their signature Farmhouse Ale to a variety of IPAs, each of their beers is well-balanced, crisp and original. There truly is something for everybody.

When you start to get a little hungry after a beer or two, Wheatland Spring offers a menu of classic brewery food (think pretzels, sandwiches and burgers); they also frequently host other food vendors on weekends throughout the year. They host movie nights on Fridays and often have live music and other fun events.

Looking toward the future, Bonny and John hope Wheatland Spring can serve as a platform for the local agricultural community and an example of regenerative agriculture in the beer world. “We think community matters. We think small farms matter. We think healthy food matters. We think integrity matters. We think regional identity matters. We think all these things are important, not just for us, but for our kids and our kids’ kids.”

Photo credit: Cinderella & Champagne